Vang Vieng - Laos

VANG VIENG

This small town 160km north of Vientiane via Rte 13 nestles along a scenic bend in the Nam Song. The town itself is not without charm, but the main attraction is the karst topography lining the west hank of the river. Honeycombed with unexplored tunnels and caverns, the limestone cliffs here are a spelunker's heaven. Several of the caves are named and play small roles in local mythology - all are said to be inhabited by spirits.

Also rewarding is a walk along the river. Most of the local fishing pirogues are poled along the river, so the scenery is unmarred by noisy motors.

Other than the Chinese-built cement factory 7km south of town and a little-used American-built airstrip between Rte 13 and the town, Vang Vieng is well removed from modernization and there are lots of tropical birds in the vicinity. Several monasteries in the district date to the 16th and 17th centuries, among them Wat Si Vieng Song (Wat That), Wat Kang, Wat Khua Phan, Wat Si Suman and Wat Phong Phen. Outside town are some Hmong villages, including two just 7km and 13km west across the Nam Song.

Information

Services in town include a post office, bank, central market bus station and provincial hospital. Just west of Dok Khoun 1 Guest House, PlaNet Online offers Internet access.

Dangers & Annoyances

We've had reports of thefts occurring at some of the caves. Every story follows the same plot: A guide leads tourists to a point in the cave where you must leave your day bag while swimming or wading through a section of water. Often the guide leaves an assistant to look after the bags. Then while you're exploring the cave farther on, valuables are taken from the bags. Either leave your valuables at your guest- house or hotel, or have a companion watch the bags, while taking turns exploring ahead. Or stow your valuables in a watertight bag and carry them with you.

Vang Vieng is known as a place where it's easy to buy opium, and local Vietnamese gangs operate at least half a dozen clandestine smoking dens. The police raid these dens from time to time, arresting all customers (but usually not the operators), in eluding foreigners. So far no tourist caught in such a raid has been jailed, but several have been heavily fined and a few deported. Travelers visiting these dens also risk' taking opium adulterated with heroin and/or speed.

Several tourists have reportedly drowned while tubing down the Nam Song in Vang Vieng. Although we have yet to verify any such fatalities, we do know of tubers who were knocked off their tubes by tree branches or fallen trees, and who had to be rescued from river rapids. Exercise caution if you go tubing and, if possible, follow someone who has successfully navigated the river before.

Things to See & Do

Most visitors spend their time strolling or biking the river bank, exploring local villages, tubing the river and checking out the many local limestone caves.

Caves

Below we've described only the most accessible of the tham (caves). All the caves in Vang Vieng are now signed in English as well as Lao, and an entry fee of around US$0.30 is collected by a guide at the entrance to each cave. The guide (often a young village boy) will lead you through the cave, but still it's a good idea to bring along a torch (flashlight): You can buy a sketch map to some of the caves from small restaurants near the market in town for a couple of thousand kip.

For more extensive multi-cave tours, most guesthouses can arrange a guide for around US$3 a day. You can also arrange trips that include river tubing and cave tours for around US$4.50 a half-day, US$9 all day.

Tham Jang The most famous of the caves, this large cavern was used as a bunker indigence against marauding Yunnanese Chinese in the early 19th century jang means steadfast. A set of stairs leads up to the main cavern entrance.

Inside the cave are electric lights, which the caretakers will turn on once you've paid the US$0.50 entry fee, which must be paid at the entrance to Vang Vieng Resort before you can walk through the resort to the hanging footbridge across the river. There are also fees for crossing the resort grounds US$0.13 per car or large vehicle, US$0.07 for a motorcycle, US$0.03 for bicycles and
US$0.07 for pedestrians.

From the main cave chamber you can look over the river valley through an opening in the limestone wall; a cool spring at the foot of the cave feeds into the river. You can swim up this spring around 80m into the cave.

Tham Pha Puak A little farther north of Tham Jang, you can climb to this cave in a karst outcropping surrounded by the aptly named Pha Daeng (Red Cliffs). To reach it, walk across the bamboo footbridge (US$0.07 toll) spanning the Nam Song next to the Hotel Nam Song, then cross the rice fields towards the formation. There are various smaller caves in the vicinity, all of them with entrances high in the limestone cliffs. Getting there is half the fun.

Tham Phu Kham To reach this cave, cross the bamboo footbridge (US$0.07 toll) near the Hotel Nam Song, then walk or pedal 6km along a scenic, unpaved road to the village of Ban Na Thong, passing Ban Na Bua on the way. From Ban Na Thong, where you can park you bicycle for a small fee, follow the path 1km to a hill on the northern side or the village, following signs to Thurn Phu Kham. Someone is usually around to collect the US$0.25 entrance fee when you cross the turquoise stream at the base of the formation holding the cave. It's a stiff 200m climb through some interesting scrub forest to the cave, whose cavernous hall contains a Thai bronze reclining Buddha. Deeper galleries branch off the main cavern formation. A dip in the stream after the steep climb up and down to the cave is very inviting. There are also a few picnic tables and an outdoor toilet nearby.

Tham Pha Jao This cave takes a little more effort to reach. and although the cave itself is not spectacular, the pleasant walk and natural setting make it worthwhile. Follow Rte 13 south 6km to Ban Khan Mak village, then take a side road down to the Nam Song. Hire a pirogue to ford the river (or wade across in the driest months), and then follow a path on the opposite bank until it breaks right into a banana grove. At this point head for the giant lone dipterocarp tree (note the huge bees nests hanging high above, and the steps added to the trunk for easy honey collection) standing sentinel near the cave. Soon you'll see the heartsease entrance to the medium-size cavern, which contains a Buddha figure but little else.

Tham Sang (Tham Xang) To reach 'Elephant Cave', head 8km north on Rte 13 to Ban Na Dao, then walk west down a wide lane immediately after Km 165 until you meet the river. Cross the footbridge here, or if it’s down, hail a pirogue. Walk towards the isolated outcropping on the other bank marked by tall dipterocarp trees and a small rustic temple. The small cavern contains a few Buddha images and a Buddha 'foot-print', plus the elephant-shaped stalactite that gives the cave its name. It's best visited in the morning when light enters the cave.


Tham Sang can also be reached from a turn-off farther north along the highway at Km 173. The latter access is signed.

Tham Hoi If you're at Tham Sang you can hike a short distance farther north to this cave. Cross a small footbridge over a stream, then traverse some rice fields towards the nearby limestone cliff in which you should be able to see the cave opening. The entrance is guarded by a large Buddha figure reportedly the cave continues several kilometers into the limestone.

If you want to go directly to Tham Hoi, proceed 14km from Yang Yieng and look for a dirt road on the left signed for Tharn Hoi and Tham Xang. Take the road down to the river and then follow the signs. Local boat pilots can assist crossing the river.

Tubing the River
For a small fee, many guesthouses rent huge tractor tyre inner tubes so that visitors can float down the Nam Song. The usual put-in is a spot near Phoudindaeng Organic Farm, 3km north of Yang Yieng. You can hire a jumbo to take you to this spot (around US$3 one way). A few guesthouses make a daily run to the put-in for free.

In times of high water, rapids along the Nam Song can be quite daunting. See the warning under Dangers & Annoyances at the beginning of this section regarding the risk of drowning.

Places to Stay

With so many travelers spending a few nights here on their way to or from Luang Prabang, Yang Yieng has experienced a boom in guesthouses over the last few years.

Nana Guest House (511036, Thanon Luang Probang ) Singles/doubles US$2.25/ 3.40. This is one of several guesthouses on or just off the main north-south street through town, 50m west of the main bus stop. Nana is a clean and modem two-storey house with a curving staircase leading to the 2nd floor and a little parking' area in front. There are five very clean, ample-sized rooms with attached toilet and hot shower, two beds and ceiling fan, plus a restaurant on the premises.

Pany Guest House (511076, Ban Vieng Kaew) Rooms US$2.25-2.50. Just near Nana, this two-storey guesthouse is quiet and cheap.

Dok Khoun 2 Guest House (511063, Ban Vieng Kaew} Rooms US$2.25-4. Just a few meters farther along the same lane, the Dok Khoun 2 has two wings, one with two story’s and another with three. Some rooms contain one large bed, others two twin beds. It's clean and friendly; rooms downstairs offer only shared facilities, while those upstairs have attached toilet and shower.

Siripangna Guest House (Siripanya; 511 131) Rooms US$2.25. Almost opposite Dok Khoun 1 (see later), this guesthouse features basic rooms with attached bath in a one-storey building. The rooms are nothing special, but the staff are friendly and can help with cave explorations.

Nana Guest House & Restaurant ( 511036) Singles/doubles US$2.25/3.40. A second location of Nana Guest House, with similar standards, can be found in a three-storey building behind a restaurant back out on the main street, and south a bit on the right.

Viengchaleune Guest House (511097) Rooms US$2.25-2.50. This guest house is in a modern two-storey building a block south of Khamla Restaurant, and offers fan rooms with a choice of two twin beds or one large bed.

Sivixay Guesthouse (511030, 101 Thanon Luang Prabang) Singles/doubles with shared shower US$1.I5/1.70, with attached toilet & shower US$2.2512.80. Towards the northern end of the main street, Sivixay has very basic rooms for truckers in an older building next to the road. Towards the quieter rear of the property are two newer buildings with four clean rooms.

Dok Khoun 1 Guest House (511032) Rooms US$2.25-4.50. Moving west towards the market, the rambling Dok Khoun 1 has three motel-like wings, with rooms nearer the street costing more than those at the back

Ngeuphanith Guest House (511150) Singles/doubles US$213. Clean rooms and shared hot showers are housed in a bright, white two-storey motel-like edifice.

Erawan Guest House (fax 511093) Rooms US$2.25-3.40. South of the Ngeuphanith, this well-designed two-storey place has good lighting and a cosy restaurant downstairs.

Bungalow Thavonsouk (511096, 414149, mobile 020-516698, Ban Vieng Kaew) Rooms US$10-28. In a scenic location on the river, Thavonsouk features a variety of bamboo-and-rattan lodging from separate or semidetached bungalows with private showers to rooms in row houses with shared facilities. All rooms are clean and come with fans and verandas. The open-deck restaurant is a great place to watch sunsets.

Hotel Nam Song (511016, mobile 020-517047, 9 Ban Yieng Kaew) Comer/ river-view/rear rooms US$35/30126. This small one-storey hotel sits on a slight bluff facing the Nam Song. Clean, comfortable rooms include air-con, minifying, attached toilet and hot shower. There's a pleasant veranda area in front with river views, plus a spacious garden.

Les Jardins de Vang Vieng (51/292 Ban Vieng Kaew ) Smaller/larger bungalows S$4.50/5.60. This French-owned place features seven tidy bamboo-and-thatch bungalows that come with fan, mosquito net and storage shelves. The well-designed communal bathrooms are spotless. More - expensive bungalows were under construction when we visited, and these will have attached bathrooms. The French restaurant here offers a standard breakfast and lunch menu, with French dinner specials.

Kiane Thong Guest House (51 1069. Ban Vieng Kaew) Rooms US$3.40. On the road that goes along the southern side of the hospital towards the highway, the hotel-like Kiane Thong has 20 rooms with attached bath and hot water. It's clean, secure and well maintained.

Khamphone Guest House (511062 Ban Yieng Kaew ) Doubles/triples US$3.15/ 3.75; rooms with air-con US$6. This guest- house offers clean rooms with fan and attached bath with hot water. There's a restaurant and the manager speaks English.

Vieng Savanh Guest House (511112. Ban Vieng Kaew) Rooms US$2.80-4. Very typical of guesthouses in this' area, the Vieng Savanh offers simple but clean rooms in a large two-storey house.

Amphone Guest House (511180. Ban Yieng Kaew) Rooms US$2.80-4. This is similar to the Vieng Savanh, with eight rooms in a two-storey white house,

Khounthong Guest House (Ball Yieng Kaew) Rooms US$2.25-3.40. This two- storey wooden house has more local character than most local guesthouses, and the proprietors sell textiles in a shop downstairs.

Sisombat Guest House (Rte 13) Rooms US$1.70-2.80. About 10m south of the bus terminal, on the opposite side of the street, Sisombat has pretty ordinary rooms (shared bath) in the usual converted house, but if you arrive by bus late at night and don't want to walk into town, it'll do.

Out of Town Vang Vieng Resort (511050; in Vientiane 021-222671; mobile 020-517001, fax 021-214743) Bam- boo rooms US$3, cottage rooms up to US$20. Slightly south of town but near the river and opposite Tham Jang, Yang Vieng Resort features quiet, comfortable. red-tiled cottages (some in duplexes. others separate). All rooms come equipped with private toilet and hot-water shower. The resort also has some dark bamboo rooms in a row house with shared cold shower. The cottages aren't as nice as the rooms at the Hotel Nam Song, however, nor is the atmosphere as welcoming as Les Jardins.

Phoudindaeng Organic Farm (511220 ) Dorm beds US$1, rooms without bath US$3.35. Known locally as Phoudindaeng Mulberry Farm, this organic farm 1km north of Yang Vieng raises mulberry trees for silk and tea production. It also grows organic fruits and vegetables and produces wine. The farm encompasses more than five hectares and continues to expand in an effort to protect the area. The 10-person dorm is for those who volunteer to work at the farm which is affiliated with WOOF (Willing Workers on Organic Farms). Though volunteers must pay for their dorm beds, they eat for free. The mulberry milkshakes served here are delicious.

Places to Eat

Yang Vieng is not a great eating town, especially if you're looking for good Lao food. Basically your choices are either falang food oriented towards the burgeoning tourist scene or Chinese/Vietnamese rice and noodle shops.

Opening times for restaurants depend on how many tourists are in town. During the low season, restaurants may open later and close earlier.

Asian Just about the only place to find authentic local Lao cuisine is in the market, which runs from early morning until around 5pm daily. Here you'll find vendors selling Lao dishes prepared in advance; orders arc scooped from pans and placed in small plastic bags for takeaway. For US$1 or less you can buy two or three dishes plus rice. The noodle stands have a few chairs and tables for eat-in customers.

Khamla Restaurant Dishes US$0.50-2. Open 8am-10pm daily. This popular semi outdoor restaurant offers a selection of vegetarian dishes, using only organic produce from Phoudindaeng Organic Farm.

Paseutxay Restaurant Dishes US$1- 2.50. Open 7.30am-9pm daily. Near Dok Khoun 1 Guest House, this large, popular and relatively clean restaurant tries hard to meet the idiosyncratic needs of Western travelers with vegie versions of noodle and rice dishes and a reduction in the use of chilies and other pungent seasonings. It also offers European breakfasts.

Nazim Dishes US$1-2.50. Open 11 am- 11pm daily. About 30m south of Erawan Guest House is a branch of Vientiane's popular Nazim. The Indian menu includes both North and South Indian specialties, including delicious masala dosa.

Sunset Restaurant Dishes US$1-3. Open 8am-9pm daily. This restaurant at Bungalow Thavonsouk overlooks the river near the main river crossing. The menu selections, ranging from Western breakfasts to pseudo-Lao cuisine, are good and it's' a great vantage point to watch locals crossing the river, fishing, collecting snails, doing laundry and bathing.

Phaykham Restaurant Dishes US$1-5. Open 11am-10pm daily. Lamplight adds atmosphere to simply designed outdoor dining areas consisting of wooden tables beneath thatched-roof shelters. The house specialty is fresh barbecued fish along with a few relatively authentic Lao dishes. It's north of Bungalow Thavonsouk on the river.

Viengkeo Restaurant Dishes US$0.50- Open 9am-9pm daily. Near a string of guesthouses on Thanon Luang Prabang, the Viengkeo is one of the better simple, indoor-outdoor places serving a wide variety of Western, Chinese, Thai and Lao dishes oriented towards travelers.

Nokeo Dishes US$0.50-2. Open 8am- 8pm daily. One of the longest-operating and most reliable restaurants in Yang Vieng, the Nokeo near the market is one of the few that sees a Lao as well as foreign clientele. The cooks add lots of vegies to the file and also to your choice of beef, chicken or pork stir-fried over rice.

Vanhmany Dishes US$0.50-2. Open 8am- 8pm daily. In the same vicinity, Vanhmany is a simple but clean eatery serving standard Lao rice and noodle dishes.

If you're walking or biking out to Tham Phu Khan, friendly Restaurant Kapphet in Ban Na Thong serves snacks and simple rice dishes during daylight hours.

International Les Jardins de Vang Vieng (511292, Ban Vieng Kaew) Dishes US$2- 5. Open 8am-10pm daily. You don't have to stay at Les Jardins to enjoy the authentic French cuisine here. The chalkboard menu changes frequently and prices aren't that high considering the good quality.

Xayob Cyber Restaurant Dishes US$1- 4. Open 11am-11 pm daily. The Xayoh combines a south-western US-style exterior and European pub-style interior. There's a pool table and outdoor and indoor seating areas as well as an area with computer terminals. The menu runs the traveler’s gamut from fried rice to pizza.

La Riziere Restaurant Dishes US$1.50- Open noon-10pm daily, Also known as Rice Field and Pizzeria Falconi, this smaller . spot features decent lasagne, ravioli and pizza.

Luang Prabang Bakery Pastries under US$1. Open 8am-8pm daily. For those who need strong coffee and sugary baked goods, this spot opposite Dok Khoun I Guest House should satisfy.

Getting There & Away

In Yang Vieng buses as well as most passenger trucks now leave from a simple shed-like terminal on the esteem side of the airstrip, rather than from the market as in the past. A few sawngthaew still cruise the market, however, and especially if you plan to charter a sawngthaew north or south, the market is a good place to make contact with drivers.

Vientiane

From Vientiane's Talat Khua Luang (Talat Laeng) terminal, sawngthaew leave every 20 minutes in the early part of the day, thinning out a little in the later afternoon, with the last departure around 6pm. Departure frequency back to Vientiane is along the same lines. The sawngthaew fare is US$0.90 and the trip takes two to three hours, depending on the number of passengers and stops. If you want to try chartering a sawngthaew to or from Vientiane, count on spending around US$20 if you take no more than six passengers with luggage, and an extra US$2 per person above that number.

Buses depart Yang Vieng for Vientiane (US$0.70, three hours) at 5.30am, 5.50am, 6.10am, 1pm and 2.30pm. From Vientiane buses bound for Vang Vieng depart from the Talat Sao bus terminal on a similar schedule.

If you're traveling by private transport, a good place to break the journey along the way to/from Vientiane is at the scenic Hin Hoep river junction. The PL, Prince Souvanna Phouma and Prince Uounome signed a short-lived peace treaty in the middle of the bridge at Hin Hoep in 1962.

Luang Prabang

Large buses - usually the heavy wooden kind but for the 9am departure a nicer bus with real scats - to / from Luang Prabang cost US$4.50 per person and take around five hours (longer if there are a lot of stops). It's a good idea to bring some food for lunch in case the driver decides not to make any stops, and you should be at the bus terminal before 8am if you want to get a seat on the 9am bus as it fills up fast. This departure is usually the most crowded of the day, however, on top of which it's usually 99% foreigners. We've heard complaints that drivers on this bus do not stop for food or toilet breaks. Many people prefer to take the regular 'chicken bus', which is typically more relaxed and more likely to stop for breaks. The fare is the same for both types of buses, although the modern bus is slightly faster.

You can charter a sawngthaew from Yang Vieng to Luang Prabang or vice versa for US$80 (for up to eight people) or US$100 for 10.

Getting Around

You can easily walk anywhere in town on foot. Several shops near the market rent bikes for US$I to US$2 a day. Some people take bikes across the river (via the bamboo bridge between Hotel Nam Song and Bungalow Thavonsouk) and ride to villages and caves west of the Nam Song.

For cave sites out of town you can charter sawngthaew in the market - expect to pay around US$IO per trip up to 20km north or south of town.