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Places to Stay


 

Where once there were just a few ineptly run government 'institutions', there is now a wide selection of guesthouses, mid-range pensions and hotels, and a growing number of top-end choices for travelers. The best hotel deals in Phnom Penh fall into the mid-range category. For the most part, it is still slim pickings for budget travelers, though there are signs that the situation is gradually improving. Similarly, top-end travelers will often find that Phnom Penh's top hotels are expensive; there is often far better value for money at the mid-range hotels. 

 

For the time being, traffic conditions, while slightly chaotic, are not as bad as they are in many Asian cities. Provided you are happy to jump on a moto or take a cycle (bicycle rickshaw), it makes little difference where in town you are based. Some of the best mid-range deals, for example, are in the south of town near the Independence Monument, but even from there it is only a 10 minute moto drive to the centre of town.

 

Places to Stay - Budget

The most popular guesthouses are scattered around town, which makes checking them out for comfort difficult. There aren't that many budget places in Phnom Penh when compared with Siem Reap, but this will undoubtedly change as visitor numbers take off in the next few years, so if you hear of a great new place that isn't mentioned here it is probably worth a try.

 

The longest running, though by no means the best, is the Capitol Guesthouse (364104) on Ph 182 not far from Psar 0 Russei. The owners have expanded operations into two adjacent buildings under the names Happy Guesthouse and Capitol II. Basic singles/doubles (no bathroom, often
no window) cost USS3/5, while rooms with bathroom cost USS4/6.

 

There is a slightly seedy atmosphere pervading the place, but the restaurant downstairs is always a lively, cheap place to eat. The Capitol is the best budget centre to arrange transport for sightseeing in the Phnom Penh area, as the friendly management is the most experienced in the business. It can also change most foreign currencies and assist with visa arrangements.

 

Narin Guesthouse ( 213657, 50. Ph 125) is probably the most popular budget place in town. It's a clean and friendly, family-run place that provides excellent meals. Clean rooms with windows and shared bathroom cost USS3/5, or USS6 for a double with bathroom in the comer annex.

Bookings are advised. If the rooms are full, the guesthouse will let you sleep on the terraces for USSI. The family has guesthouses throughout Cambodia so can also help with transport and visa arrangements.

 

Not far from the Capitol and Narin on Ph 115 is the Lux Orisey Guesthouse (721761), which has some decently priced rooms for USS5 for a double bed and bathroom and USS8 for two beds, a bathroom and a TV. It is a quiet place, and makes for a handy retreat if Narin is full. Elsewhere around town, the two most popular spots are No 9 Guesthouse (018- 815569) and Lakeside Guesthouse. Both have a great setting by Boeng Kak, and there's a wooden pavilion area with hammocks. The food served at these guesthouses is reasonable, and it is definitely the place to be for dramatic sunsets over the lake. It's advisable that you check in any valuables with management if you stay the rooms are not particularly secure. Very basic rooms start at US$2, but are prone to attacks from squadrons of mosquitoes living on the lake. The biggest drawback of staying here is access, as both guesthouses are at the end of a long dirt road that becomes a bog in the wet season.

 

If you are in Phnom Penh for the first time and want to experience the sights and nightlife, Narin is better than the guesthouses by the lake; but if you've done all you want to do and are just waiting for a visa or a plane, you might want to chill out by the water.

 

A relative newcomer that .is rapidly acquiring a great reputation among backpackers is the Walkabout Hotel ( 012-851787) on the corner of Ph 51 and Ph 174, not far south of the Heart of Darkness bar. Rooms start at US$6, but are slowly being upgraded so prices may rise a little. Air-con rooms are available for US$IO. It has a24 hour bar with a pool table. If you are into your nightlife you may end up saving a considerable sum on rnoto rides to the Heart of Darkness.

 

The Pyco Guesthouse ( 012-862824. 79 Sisowath Quay), formerly Bert's Books, has little atmosphere for such a good location - it's a joint venture in waiting really. Rooms with fan and bathroom cost US$5 or US$IO with air-con. If you don't mind staying a little way out from the city centre, then the Tat Guesthouse t= 012-858709),just off Kampuchea Krom Blvd on Ph 259, is a good place. It offers clean, modern rooms for US$3/5, or US$6 with a bathroom. It also has a rooftop restaurant. It is a convenient location if you have to catch an early flight from Pochentong airport.

 

If you want to spend a little more for a lot more comfort, the friendly Royal Guesthouse (360298. 91. Ph 154), just off Norodom Blvd, has a good selection of rooms with bathroom, TV, fridge and aircon. It has a couple of basic rooms for US$4/5, while rooms with all the trimmings
cost US$7/l O. It has a good cafe downstairs.

 

A similar deal is available at the Dara Reang Sey Hotel ( 428141), on the comer of Ph Il8 and Ph 13. It has well-appointed air-con rooms for US$12115 and some cheaper fan rooms with bathroom for USS6. The restaurant downstairs has Khmerpriced food and drinks.

 

Places to Stay - Mid-Range

If you are happy spending US$IO to USS20 for a room in Phnom Penh there are some excellent deals to be had around town. The average price for a double with air-con, attached bathroom, TV (sometimes with satellite) and laundry service is US$15, and occasionally prices dip to US$10 or lower for a single.

 

As with the budget guesthouses, there is no single mid-range hotel area. The stretch of Monivong Blvd between Pochentong and Preah Sihanouk Blvds is the old hotel I  district, but many of the hotels in this area have been renovated and refurbished into the top-end category: those that haven't are generally poor value. Some of the best deals in town are south of Preah Sihanouk Blvd, but there are also some good deals elsewhere.

 

Central Phnom Penh On the waterfront, on the corner of Ph 144, is Hotel Indochina ( 427292), a very friendly place with spacious air-con rooms with bathroom and TV for USSI 0112 for singles/doubles and those with a river view for US$12/15. There are also some rooms with hot water for USS20. It can help with travel arrangements and sells cheaper return boat tickets to Siem Reap than most other places.

 

Next door is the slightly more sophisticated Sunshine Hotel ( 725684. fax 218256), which has slightly higher prices to match the image. Well-equipped rooms with air-con, TV, fridge and telephone are US$15120, or US$25 a double with a dubious city view and US$30 with a commanding river view.

In the south of town is the Amara Hotel (362824), on the corner of Ph 63 and Ph 282. The Amara looks slightly the worse for wear, but it has a business centre, and rooms with air-con and bathroom are just US$IO/13. There are also functional triples available for USD.

 

The Singapore Hotel (~ 725552), on the comer of Kampuchea Krom and Monivong Blvds, is an average kind of place with rooms for USD.

The Cathay Hotel t= 427178), just north of the comer of Ph 19 and Ph 110, has been around for a while, and is a popular place with resident journalists and photographers, who swear by the hotel's answering service and business facilities. The rooms are a good deal too. Air-con rooms on the 1st and 2nd floors cost US$20, while those on the 3rd and 4th floors cost US$IS. One of the high points of this hotel (besides its location) are the encircling verandas on every floor.

 

Not far from the Cathay is the Fortune Hotel t= 428216, 2, Ph 67). It does a steady business with regular visitors to Phnom Penh and seems to have cleaned up its once slightly seedy image. Rooms cost US$IS. The Wat Phnom Hotel (~ 725320) is also US$IS for a room and is not far away on the Wat Phnom circle road. The Wat Phnom is a little tired these days - the rooms are musty and look the worse for wear.

 

A favorite with long-terriers is the Golden Gate Hotel (721161,fax 427618). It is close to the comer of Ph S7 and Ph 278. Unfortunately it is not unusual for this extremely friendly Chinese-run hotel to be full - it's a good idea to ring ahead and book. The Golden Gate has a downstairs restaurant and verandas. The rooms are spotless, have air-con and are fitted with satellite TV and minibars. There is also a free laundry service. Costs are US$30/40 for rooms in the main building, or US$IS/20 in the less impressive annex.

 

If the Golden Gate is full, the Tokyo Hotel ( 721050,fax 721051, 13, Ph 278) is not far away. It is good value with rooms for US$IO/1S. Another nearby option is the Champs Ely sees Hotel  (721080, fax 724153, 185, Ph 63). This place deserves to be more popular than it is. The staff are helpful and the doubles at US$20 are among the best value in town. Two-room apartments are available for US$30, and there are also some triples for US$22 and a couple of singles without bathrooms for USD.

 

Also close to the Golden Gate, but a definite notch up in price and comfort is the Gordian Hotel ( 218490, fax 217558/9). The only fault of this excellently run place is the gaudy pink decor in the rooms. Standard doubles cost US$2S, spacious deluxe rooms US$3S to USD 4S and suites US$SS. The standard doubles here would cost USD SO or upwards at any of the self-proclaimed three or four-star hotels around town. It also boasts a fitness centre. The restaurant downstairs is Chinese, but the food is very average.

 

Nearby, the small One Way Guesthouse (215621) on Norodom Blvd to the south of Independence Monument has four rooms with air-con, TV and hot bath for US$20. It's popular with the French crowd in Phnom Penh. You need to book ahead if you hope to stay here. 

 

There are very few good mid-range deals to be had on the Monivong Blvd commercial stretch nowadays. The Asie Hotel (427825) on the comer of Monivong and Kampuchea Krom Blvds has some singles for US$18, but they are grim, windowless coffins; better rooms cost from USD22.

 

The Tai Seng Hotel (427220, 56 Monivong Blvd) has a good location west of Wat Phnom and is heavily promoted by the tourist office at Pochentong airport. Rooms here cost US$2S, or US$20 on the higher floors - some of these have good views of Boeng Kak. The hotel also has a reasonably good restaurant. The Hong Kong Hotel ( 211891, fax 211890, 419 Monivong Blvd) has standard fare at its attached Cantonese restaurant. It is popular with the Chinese business set. Rooms cost US$20125.

 

The Pailin Hotel ( 426697,fax 426376, 219 Monivong Blvd) has rooms for US$20/28, or deluxe rooms for US$45 and suites for US$55. Add 20% tax to the price. The Dusit Hotel ( 427483, 2, Ph 118) is a sprawling place not far from the Psar Thmei; rooms cost US$20/30. La Pallone  ( 722151), opposite the Psar Thmei on Ph 130, is a clean, well-run place in a good location; rooms cost from US$20 to US$30. For more up market accommodation, one of the best choices around is the Hawaii Hotel ( 426652) on the comer of Ph 51 and Ph 136 near the Psar Thmei. The Hawaii has Chinese and Thai restaurants, and the rooms cost US$22/33, or US$44 for junior suites. Discounts of 10% are available for a stay of a week or more.

 

The Renakse Hotel  ( 722457, fax 428785 ) superbly located opposite the Royal Palace, is an old colonial building set amidst an attractive leafy garden. The rooms have recently been tastefully renovated and start at US$25/30, or US$45 for a deluxe double with more space. These rates include breakfast, making it one of the best places to stay in Phnom Penh for this sort of money, especially for those that are unable to afford a similar ambience at Hotel Le Royal.

 

Due to the proliferation of hotels in Phnom Penh, prices of some of the town's nicer hotels have dropped dramatically in the last few years. Places to look out for include the Diamond Hotel ( 427325. fax 426635) on Monivong Blvd, which has halved its prices lately and offers rooms for US$40/50.

 

The Foreign Correspondents' Club (724014, fax 427758) offers a similarly stylish location to rest your head at night, with two rooms for US$35, including breakfast. The rooms have breezy balconies overlooking the Tonle Sap river and include a minibar clearly aimed at the journalists who pass through town - the spirits come in litter bottles rather than miniatures. It is advisable that you book ahead.

 

Beyond the City Centre On Charles de Gaulle Blvd opposite the Psar Olympic there are a few more mid-range places. The best of these is the Borei Thmei Hotel ( 880239), where spacious, clean, air-con singles/ doubles cost US$15/20. The nearby Sangkor Hotel ( 427144) and the Yimean Suor Hotel ( 364070) offer the same rates, but are not quite as welcoming or comfortable.

 

The Bophar Toep Hotel (724251), opposite Sofitel Cambodian Hotel, is a noisy place with attached karaoke/dancing club; seedy rooms cost US$15.  

 

The Paradise Hotel (-a 722951, fax 427280. 213 Monivong Blvd) has double rooms from US$20. A popular place with long-term residents is the Sydney International Hotel (-a 428312, fax 427907). inconveniently located just west of the intersection of Monivong Blvd and Ph 360. This place is recognizable by the oversize Foster's can outside and a miniature Sydney Opera House inside the foyer. As you might expect, it's popular with the Aussie contingent. Rooms range from US$25 to US$35, though discounts are sometimes available.

 

The Bayon Hotel ( 427281.2, Ph 75) is a new French-run hotel with a bar and excellent restaurant plus video room over 1500 titles. Singles/doubles/triples cost US$25/35/45; deluxe rooms cost front, US$55. The highly recommended Royal Palace Hotel t= 720875.[ax 720874), located near Psar Dang Kor on Monireth Blvd, has faultless rooms with all the trimmings for US$40 - excellent value given it boasts a swimming pool.

 

Places to Stay - Top End

Historic Hotel Le Royal t= 981888, fax 981168.), next to the National Library on the comer of Monivong Blvd and Ph 92, opened its doors once more for business at the end of 1997. It is Phnom Penh's finest hotel, with a heritage to match its comfort and class. Rooms are not as expensive as you would at first imagine given the opulence. Singles/doubles start at US$120/135 if booked through travel agents in Phnom Penh, although walk-in rates are generally higher. Its personality suites are rather expensive at US$360; if you are really flush, there is a Royal Suite for US$2000, but surely people can find a better way to spend this much money.

 

The hotel has a swimming pool, gym, spa, business centre, and bars and restaurants with lavish food and drink. It is worth visiting the Elephant Bar for a tipple, even if you are not staying here. See the Bars entry in the Entertainment section later in this chapter for more details. Between 1970 and 1975 most journalists working in Phnom Penh stayed here, and part of the film The Killing Fields was set in the hotel (though filmed in Hua Hin, Thailand). When foreign-aid workers set up shop in the country after the Vietnamese takeover, this is where they stayed.

 

The city's first five-star hotel, the Intercontinental Hotel ( 424888, fax 424885, email phnompenh@interconti.com). is the city's tallest building and is located on the corner of Mao Tse Toung and Monireth Blvds. It has a fitness centre, a swimming pool, business centre and conference facilities. Rooms start at USS I 70/200.

 

The Sofitel Cambodiana Hotel (' 426288, fax 426392) took almost a quarter of a century to complete. Begun around 1967, when Prince Sihanouk was chief of state, the unfinished structure and its spacious grounds were used as a military base by the Lon Nol government. Refugees from the
fighting in the countryside sheltered under its concrete roof between 1970 and 1975. Work was resumed in 1987 after a Cambodian expatriate living in Hong Kong and two Singaporeans decided to invest at least USS20 million in the project.

 

It has restaurants, bars, a swimming pool, health centre, business centre and shops. Room prices start at USSI20/150, and executive suites cost US$400.  Just south of the Russian embassy on Samdech Sothearos Blvd is the highly rated Royal Phnom Penh Hotel ( 360026, fax 360036). This Thai-managed hotel has a pleasant garden setting, offers Thai and Chinese dining, a nightclub, bar and coffee shop. Room rates are a flat USSI80. Bookings can be made in Bangkok ( 589 2021).

 

The Juliana Hotel (366070) on Ph 152 north-west of Psar 0 Russei is one of the best options in its price range. Again it features a garden setting with a large swimming pool. Other amenities include a fitness centre and sauna, barber, bar and restaurants. Singles cost USS60, twins USS70 and

deluxe rooms USS80, which is excellent value for the standard provided and half the price of a few years ago.

 

One of the newest hotels on the Phnom Penh scene is the Sun way Hotel ( 430333, fax 430339), which has an excellent location overlooking Wat Phnom. The comfort is of a high standard and facilities include restaurants, a business centre and conference rooms. It also has an art gallery on the 1st floor, which includes some innovative paintings produced by local artists. Room prices are USS72/94.

 

There are several cheaper up market  hotels around the city, which charge a standard USS60170: the Regent Park Hotel (427131, fax 361999) is housed in a rather incongruous looking building near the Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument; the City Central Hotel (722022, fax 722021) has a lively location on Monivong Blvd, near the Psar Thmei; the recently refurbished River - side Hotel ( 725050, fax 725551), overlooking the Tonle Sap river and just around the corner from Wat Phnom, is the best of these places.

 

Popular with the Chinese business set is the Holiday International Hotel ( 427402, fax 427401), on Ph 84, just off Monivong Blvd, and the Sharaton Cambodia Hotel (no, not Sheraton;  361199), on Ph 47, just north of Wat Phnom. Both these places have Chinese restaurants and karaoke entertainment. Rates start at USS60 at the Holiday and USS50 at the Sharaton