Tonle Bati in Campudia

 

TONLE BATI Ta Prohm The late rite temple of Ta Prohm was built by King Jayavarman VII (ruled 1181 to 1201) on the site of a 6th century Khmer shrine. A stele found here dates from 1574. The site is open all day every day. The main sanctuary consists of five chambers; in each is a totem, or lingam (all of which show signs of the destruction wrought by the Khmer Rouge).   Entering the sanctuary from the east gate, 15m ahead on the right is a bas-relief depicting a woman and a man who is bowing to another, larger woman. The smaller woman has just given birth and failed to show proper respect for the midwife (the larger woman). The new mother has been condemned to carry the afterbirth on her head in a box for the rest of her life. The husband is asking that his wife be forgiven.   Around the corner to the right from the north gate of the sanctuary building is a basrelief in which a king sits to the right of his wife. Because she has been unfaithful, a servant is shown in the scene below putting her to death by trampling her with a horse. Inside the north gate is a damaged statue of the Hindu god Preah Noreay. Women come here to pray for children.    Yeay Peau Yeay Peau temple, named after King Ta Prohm's mother, is 150m north of Ta Prohm. Legend has it that Peau gave birth to a son, Prohrn. When Prohm discovered his father was King Preah Ket Mealea, he set off to live with the king. After a few years, he returned to his mother but did not recognize her and, taken by her beauty, asked .her to become his wife. He refused to believe Peau's protests that she was his mother.   To settle the matter, Peau suggested that she and Prohm build a temple; whoever finished first would get their way. The contest was held at night, with the women helping Peau and the men helping Prohm. After many hours, Peau sent aloft an artificial morning star. The men, thinking it was dawn, went to sleep. Meanwhile Peau's temple was completed, and Prohm, defeated, recognized Peau as his mother.   Nearby is Wat Tonie Bati, a modern cement structure heavily damaged by the Khmer Rouge. The only remnant of the pagoda's pre- I 97 5 complement of statues is an 80cm-high Buddha's head made of metal.   The Lakefront About 300m north-west of Ta Prohm, a long, narrow peninsula juts into the Bati River. It used to be packed on Sunday with vendors selling food, drink and fruit, but their high prices have led most Phnom Penh residents to give the place a miss or bring picnics. You are best doing likewise.   Getting There & Away The access road to Ta Prohm intersects National Hwy 2 at a point 33km south of Phnom Penh, 21 km north of the access road to Phnom Chisor and 44km north of Takeo town. The temple is 2.5km from the highway. Buses leave for Takeo at fairly regular intervals throughout the day and can let you off at the access road. The fare is 3000r. The first bus from Phnom Penh leaves at 6.50 am and then there are hourly services between 8 and 10am. Buses returning from Takeo in the afternoon leave at 2, 3.30 and 4.30 pm and take about one hour to get to Tonle Bati, If you are heading to the zoo at Phnom Tamao (see the following entry), these services also apply. Taxis from the Capitol Guesthouse in Phnom Penh charge US$5 per head.