Phnom Chisor in Campudia

 

PHNOM CHISOR   Try to get to the hill-top pagoda of Phnom Chisor early in the day or in the late afternoon, as it is a very uncomfortable climb in the heat of the midday sun.The main temple stands at the eastern side of the hill top. Constructed of late rite and brick with carved lintels of sandstone, the complex is surrounded by the partially ruined walls of a 2.5m-wide gallery with windows.   Inscriptions found here date from the 11th century, when this site was known as Suryagiri. The wooden doors to the sanctuary in the centre of the complex, which open to the east, are decorated with carvings of figures standing on pigs. Inside the sanctuary are statues of the Buddha.   On the plain to the east of Phnom Chisor are the sanctuaries of Sen Thmol (at the bottom of Phnom Chisor) and Sen Ravang (farther east), and the former sacred pond of Tonle Om. All three of these features form a straight line from Phnom Chisor in the direction of Angkor. During rituals held here 900 years ago, the Brahmans and their entourage would climb up to Suryagiri from this direction on a monumental stairway of 400 steps.   There is a spectacular view of the temples and plains from the roofless gallery opposite the wooden doors to the central shrine. Near the main temple is a modern Buddhist vihara used by resident monks.   There are two paths up the 100m-high ridge, which takes about 15 minutes to climb. The northern path, which has a mild gradient, begins at a cement pavilion with windows shaped like the squared-off silhouette of a bell. The building is topped with a miniature replica of an Angkor-style tower. The steeper southern route, which begins 600m south of the northern path, consists of a long stairway. A good way to see the view in all directions is to go up the northern path and come down the southern stairway.   Getting There & Away The intersection of National Hwy 2 and the east-bound access road to Phnom Chisor is marked by the two brick towers of Prasat Neang Khmau (Temple of the Black Virgin), which may have once served as a sanctuary to Kali, the dark goddess of destruction.   Prasat Neang Khmau is on National Hwy 2 at a point 55km south of central Phnom Penh, 21 km south of the turn-off to Tonle Bati and 23km north of Takeo town. It's a bit over 4km from the highway to the base of the hill.   The cheapest way to get to Phnom Chisor is to take a Takeo bus from Phnom Penh and ask to be let off at Prasat Neang Khmau. This costs 4000r and from here you can take a moto to the bottom of the hill for about 1500r. See the Getting There & Away section of the Tonle Bati entry earlier in this chapter for details on times. Alternatively you can charter a taxi for about US$25 to visit both Phnom Chisor and Tonle Bati, or there is the option of hiring a motorcycle in Phnom Penh.   TAKEO Takeo, capital of the province of the same name, is best used as a base to visit the old temples in the area of Angkor Borei. It lacks the charm of some of the other provincial capitals because it has fewer examples of colonial architecture than seen elsewhere. However, in the wet season, it becomes a lakeside town as much of the surrounding countryside floods.   Places to Stay & Eat The Phnom Sonlong Guesthouse is around the comer from the Restaurant Stung Takeo, near the river. It's a basic outfit with fancooled doubles for US$5. Another good option near the lake is the Boeung Takeo Guesthouse. Rooms with fan are US$6 or US$IO with air-con. This is a nicer part of town to stay than down by the market. Near the market is the Chhouk Meas Hotel, which has rooms with fan and bathroom for US$7 and air-con rooms for US$12. Restaurant Stung Takeo; overlooking the Takeo River, is on the road that demarcates the eastern extremity of town. It's one of the most popular restaurants in town and a good place for lunch during a journey along National Hwy 2.   Getting There & Away National Hwy 2, which links Phnom Penh with Takeo town (77km), is in a good state as far as Takeo. Air-con buses (4500r; two hours) leave Phnom Penh from the Psar Thmei at 6.50, 8, 9, 10 and 11.30 am and I, 2, 3.30 and 4.30 pm. From Takeo back to the capital they depart at 6.30, 7.30, 9.30,10.30 and 11.30 am and 12.45,2,3.30 and 4.30 pm. These buses also go past Tonle Bati and Phnom Chisor, so you can build these attractions into your trip.   The price from Phnom Penh by share taxi is 6000r, while minibuses are cheaper at 3000r. I f you are going by road to Kampot, take a époque -moto or moto for the 13km journey to Angk Tasaom and then arrange a seat in a minibus or share taxi on to Kampot.   There are also train services linking Takeo to Phnom Penh in the north and, to the south, Kampot and Sihanoukville. Trains from Phnom Penh leave at 6.20 am every Monday, Wednesday and Friday for Takeo (1500r; three hours). Coming from Kampot, they depart for Takeo (1500r; three hours) at around 10 am on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, depending on what time the train arrives from Sihanoukville.