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After 70
km or 2 hours driving out of Hanoi, located on the limestone rocks of Huong Son
Mountain in beautiful and mystical surroundings. Unlike other temples in
Vietnam, the only way to reach this sanctuary is floating along a narrow but
extremely poetic stream by rowing boats that takes 45 minutes.
An iron boat can carry 3-5 people and a large wooden boat – up to 20 locals. The
stream is edged by rice, grass, small paths, and temples here and there. A local
pilgrim can spend here traditionally three days to visit entirely the area and
pray at all the temples. The first temple they often stop is called Den Trinh
(i.e. The Shrine for First Presenting), where Vietnamese burn the first
jos sticks to inform the local deities about their presence and pray for a good
trip and good luck for the year ahead. If you are anxious to reach the main
Wharf of Huong Son mountain to start the uphill trip to see the Main Grotto of
Huong Tich, you may skip this temple, especially in the peak season between
January and early April.
The uphill trip takes an hour climbing on the ancient flat and sometime slippery
stones, which have been here thousand years ago. The road is "breathtaking" in
all aspects – you will have some exercise, and at the same time have chance to
take some stops to contemplate beautiful scenery and daily life of local
farmers, who plant cassava and apricots in the valleys, who run quickly on the
slippery stone with their burdens of tapioca, apricots or medicinal herbs whilst
you are careful with your steps. The main pagoda is set in a huge grotto
containing a highly decorative shrine. Each stalactite and stalagmite inside,
which are soaked by undercurrent, is combined with a legend about its miracle
and good luck. Most of them became small shrines by now. Remember that the stone
grotto is huge and very cool, so stop for a while at the entrance to dry your
sweat before coming in.
The main festive days of Chua Huong stretches from January to early April, busy
and exciting. Sometimes it's drizzling and the Vietnamese all believe that the
real good things will reach you if you catch rainwater after praying in a sacred
pagoda. And among all the sacred temples and pagodas in Northern Vietnam, Chua
Huong is even more attractive and mysterious not only for its spectacular
scenery, but for the painstaking road you passed over to reach to the top.
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